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From digest.v5.n590 Wed Nov 20 22:11:36 1996
From: M Barry Ritchey <mbritch_at_sandia.gov>
Date: 20 Nov 1996 13:59:22 -0700
Subject: Speedo Fix for '90 325iX
To 325 Owners with bad speedometer/odometers:
Several months ago my '90 325iX started to have speedometer/odometer
problems in the mornings. The speedo would stay at 0 and the odometer
would not advance. The problem worsened with the onset of Fall and
cooler mornings. The speedo/odo would usually wake-up after about 5 to
10 minutes/miles of driving...and stay working until the next morning
or cold start. Here's a long winded account of my quest to fix the
speedo/odo.
1. My first attempt at a fix was to crawl under the car and check the
connector at the rear differential. Maybe it was loose or the wiring
was frayed/damaged. Everything appeared fine.
2. The next step was to post for help on the digest and pick Gordon
Haines' brain. Most e-mail replies (Thanks to those that replied!)
suggested I check for bad solder joints on the instrument circuit
board. I dreaded pulling the instrument cluster (later I learned it's
a quick job) and would pursue other avenues 1st.
3. Since I didn't have a ETM, there was no easy way of tracing the
wiring into the instrument panel. I thought I'd start at the source
and tap into the two leads (parallel connection) at the differential
connector. I soldered some female connectors to some ~14 gauge wire
and then soldered wire to my standoff connections. I ran the tap
wiring thru the drain slots in the spare-tire well into the trunk, out
the trunk, and then into the interior by way of carefully closing the
rear door (I have a 4-dr) on the wiring. I could now have a DMM
located at a convenient location (the console) to monitor voltage at
the differential connector. A regular DMM wasn't telling me much after
a few days so I borrowed a Fluke scopemeter (portable LCD scope). When
the speedo worked, there was a nice pseudo-squarewave (0 - 8V). When
the speedo sleeped, there was just mV noise. I now suspected the
speedo or instrument board.
4. Reflowed all the speedo board solder joints as described at web
site: (http://www.aros.net/~pinkston/). It's not that hard to pull the
instrument cluster, but... IT DIDN'T WORK in my case. Looking back, a
bad joint solder joint might be the cause if tapping the dash or
hitting bumps causes the speedo to jump or turn off. My speedo was
always steady on or off when driving bumpy roads or when the dash was
hit (and I did tap/pound the dash out of frustration a few times).
5. I borrowed the Fluke Scopemeter again. This time I disconnected the
cable at the differential and just measured the voltage across the two
leads. It was always 8 volts DC(actually 7.9X volts). There was no
significant AC component. After 4 days of cold morning starts and rock
steady voltage at the connector, it was time to measure across the
transmitter leads coming out of the differential. The Scopemeter,
displaying resistence vs. time, showed a nice high resistence spike
occuring about every 2.5 ms at around 30 mph when the car was warm.
The switch was normally closed (~0 ohms) and was momentarily opening
up into the megaohm range. For 4 mornings the meter would just read 0
ohms for the first few miles of driving and then suddenly show the
opening spikes of a working sensor. The transmitter was bad!!
5. To make this too long of a story shorter, I ordered the
differential transmitter (and o-ring) from my local dealer in
Albuquerque for under $35, installed it, and the speedometer and
odometer are working fine for two weeks now.
6. I performed an autopsy on the old sensor. It's a switch (glass tube
encased contact rods) that's normally closed. When in the presence of
the magnet that resides in the sensor housing, it opens. There must be
a flange inside the differential fits between the sensor and the
magnet. This causes the switch fo close (the magnetic field is blocked
by the flange. The flange is slotted, which allows the magnetic to
momentarily act on the switch to open it. I guess my bad switch tube
was just sticking closed until the heat of the differential, oil
churning, or vibration caused the contacts to start opening (pure
speculation).
Lesson learned: check the easy and obvious first. You don't need to
have a oscilliscope to diagnose this problem. You can slowly roll the
car and look for resistence staying low and then momentarily going
high to spot a good transmitter. A bad transmitter (in my case) stays
closed (low resistence) when you roll the car (or spin a wheel with
the car on jacks).
One more comment: A cable driven speedometer sure if a lot easier to
fix and troubleshoot.
Here's the part numbers for my '90 325iX:
62-16-8-357-020 Transmitter ($37.28 list)
33-11-1-206-166 O-Ring ($1.40 list)
Hope this helps someone,
Barry Ritchey
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